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Author Topic: closed system  (Read 2837 times)
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Captain Dave
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« on: March 24, 2012, 01:12:41 PM »

I'm going to try a small,simple closed system this year.I want just one 4'x8' slough box but a pump that could easily run two(if I upgrade later).Im not sure if I need a submerged pump or if I could use a pool/spa pump.Any suggestions on pumps,filters,water or anything else would be greatly appreciated.
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capt. ron
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« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2012, 01:28:51 PM »

get a small fountain pump.  2 amps or less
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« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2012, 01:55:57 PM »

I used a pool pump (2 speed) because they are pretty easy to find for free. Ran the system fine on low, on high my filter couldnt handle the volume of water to turn over.

I had a seperate tank for rank busters that I used a fountain pump on, and it work fantastic.

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crab24
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« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2012, 03:15:25 PM »

waterfall pump from home depot 1800 gal ph 149.00 worked great for me last year I ran 2 -3ft x 5 1/2  tanks

check out some pics under this link http://www.bluecrab.info/forum/index.php/topic,49984.25.html
under crab24 lots of pics to look at
« Last Edit: March 24, 2012, 03:22:01 PM by crab24 » Logged
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« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2012, 04:45:48 PM »

I would get a cheap  sump pump....Screw a water hose to it and go....No need to spend lots of money...

This will pump all the water you need...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM2043087001P?mv=rr
« Last Edit: March 24, 2012, 04:51:37 PM by genecrabman » Logged
Ron
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« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2012, 07:01:57 PM »

A closed system is on my to-do list this year.
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« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2012, 09:26:58 PM »

here ya go

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RIDGID-AQUAPRO-1-4-HP-SUBMERSIBLE-SUMP-UTILITY-PUMP-MODEL-TP250-/130669089664?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item1e6c7c1380
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« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2012, 08:25:15 AM »

I would get a cheap  sump pump....Screw a water hose to it and go....No need to spend lots of money...

This will pump all the water you need...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM2043087001P?mv=rr
That's the pump I run in my open system.  They last about 3 seasons running 24/7 during the season.  Each one has blown oil into the water when it finally quit.... I don't know if I would want to use them in a closed system. Undecided
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« Reply #8 on: March 25, 2012, 09:39:09 AM »

I have a closed system with a 4'X8' shedding tray. I use 2 underground bio filters and a sump. The first filter is clam shells. The second is 3/4" Dolomite gravel. The total water volume in the system is about 150 gals.  I use a Danner magnetic drive submersible pump model MD-9.5 in my sump it pumps 1200 gph. As with any pump you loose gph the higher you need to lift the water.  From my pump to the airator heads is about six feet. It still pumps about 750 gph which still gives me 5 turns of water an hour. This pump is designed for continual use in a fresh or salt water aquarium.  It has no exposed metal (very important).  The motor is sealed in epoxy, with no chance for oil leaks. Very low enery use. I just bought a new one for $94.00 delivered from an online site. (Dr. Foster & Smith).
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« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2012, 10:14:42 AM »

Scoop=====>   Any photos if the system you can share?
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« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2012, 11:06:37 AM »

I also have a mag-drive pump (not sure which one) that I run when only using one float.  I like it cause it costs almost nothing to run..
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« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2012, 11:32:19 AM »

I am putting the second coat of Gluvit on the shed tray this week.  I will post some pics when I assemble the plumbing and filters. Judging from your posts, I may acclimate my system a month earlier than usual.  I found a way of acclimating (growing the nitrifying bacteria in the filters) without using live creatures (crabs, fish,etc). I use ammonium cloride for the ammonia and sodium nitrite for the nitrite. It acclimates the system in about 20 days. Then I introduce hard crabs until my peeler run starts which is late may to early June.
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« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2012, 11:52:07 AM »

I am putting the second coat of Gluvit on the shed tray this week.  I will post some pics when I assemble the plumbing and filters. Judging from your posts, I may acclimate my system a month earlier than usual.  I found a way of acclimating (growing the nitrifying bacteria in the filters) without using live creatures (crabs, fish,etc). I use ammonium cloride for the ammonia and sodium nitrite for the nitrite. It acclimates the system in about 20 days. Then I introduce hard crabs until my peeler run starts which is late may to early June.

Scoop,
I added some Ridx to my filter for a few days, before turning it on. I then loaded the tanks with minnows. Even in doing so, I still found that I had to change out half my water once a week.

I'm guessing I didnt have it down just yet if Im having to change my water.
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« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2012, 12:48:15 PM »

Chris:   What type of of filter are you using and what is the total gallons of the system?  If you have a one tray system and it has the proper a filter material to develop the bacteria, you should only be adding water that evaporates. One mistake with a closed system is shock loading.  The bacteria can control the ammonia and nitrite only for a certain number of crabs. The safe number is 2 gals of water per crab.  This means that if you have 150 gals, you can safely load 75 peelers.  You can increase that number slowly by about 10%.  Keep testing for nitrites and ammonia.  Extra airation during peak loading will add extra oxygen and cut back on mortalities.  No matter what anybody might tell you, it takes almost 1 month to acclimate properly without heavy mortaltiies
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« Reply #14 on: March 25, 2012, 07:04:48 PM »

Looks like there are plenty of choices out there for economical pumps.I noticed some folks have their sumps below ground.Couldnt you just have your sump/filter above ground and pump water through it and back up to your slough box?Im going to use water from the creek here this Spring but will need to add water due to evaporation.In summer this water gets bad so Im going to try mixing a little well water with lobster tank marine salt.Am I on the right track with this stuff?All suggestions welcomed.
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« Reply #15 on: March 25, 2012, 07:09:57 PM »

Scoop,
My filters are 2 50gal. Rubbermaid feed tanks.......I was using oyster shells and busted up cinderblocks as media in both. If I were to do it over, I'd use bio-balls.

Capt.,
I have never had any of my filters in ground, but I would imagine its to keep the temp of the water down....I could be wrong.
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« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2012, 07:28:20 AM »

I run a single 4x8 fiberglass tank with water appr. 4 -5 in deep. i use a single 55 gallon plastic drum laid down on it side for my bio filter and use oyster shells as the media. i think gal cap. is about 140 - 160 gallon and i truck in creek water when i start. i don't have to change water for at least 2 months sometimes less and i do have to add water for evap. i'm in the pump biz. so my pump is over kill and have been using it for 2 seasons now but it will last a long time maybe 10 years or more. it's a basic centrifical pump but all wetted parts are stainless.i ran asmall pool pump for 3 years before this one.
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« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2012, 07:34:48 AM »

I had issues with high salinity, water evaporates but the salt doesnt.
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« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2012, 11:20:27 AM »

add fresh water.
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« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2012, 11:24:13 AM »

I had issues with high salinity, water evaporates but the salt doesnt.

I had the same issues salt never leaves the tank for evaporation sometimes I just added fresh water if your creek water is real brackish it shouldnt be an issue. also try using lava rock for a additional filtration just make sure you rinse well before using.
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« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2012, 11:26:15 AM »

add fresh water.

That becomes a major issue, as my fresh water has a high chlorine content. I have to let it sit out for a few days for the chlorine to disipate....since I live on the water, its much easier for me to just drain and add.
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« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2012, 08:35:39 PM »

Looks like there are plenty of choices out there for economical pumps.I noticed some folks have their sumps below ground.Couldnt you just have your sump/filter above ground and pump water through it and back up to your slough box?Im going to use water from the creek here this Spring but will need to add water due to evaporation.In summer this water gets bad so Im going to try mixing a little well water with lobster tank marine salt.Am I on the right track with this stuff?All suggestions welcomed.
The guy i worl for runs 25 standard floats and all we add is freshwater. it does fine. the crabs add some salt when they are put in
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« Reply #22 on: March 27, 2012, 03:13:52 PM »

Yeah,it makes sense to add a little fresh now and then.
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« Reply #23 on: March 27, 2012, 06:14:40 PM »

That becomes a major issue, as my fresh water has a high chlorine content. I have to let it sit out for a few days for the chlorine to disipate....since I live on the water, its much easier for me to just drain and add.

use anti chlor made for aquariums...  works for me...right from tap to tank  Wink
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« Reply #24 on: March 27, 2012, 06:15:40 PM »

fp,
I dont like anything I gotta pay for. The sun is free.
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